5 February 2023 – We had coffee, readied the boat then weighed the anchor and headed southeast bound out of Ensenada de los Muertos for Los Frailes around 0545 with light N winds and under a mostly full moon.

We raised the mainsail and headed SE then poled out the big genoa. Soon we made about 5 knots under about 10-15 knots of wind.

We have seen many Manta Rays or Bat Rays flipping themselves out of the water and slapping back down. We do not know why they do this but suspect it has something to do with hunting/feeding.

Just about the time we got to Los Frailes and were ready to take down the mainsail, the wind had freshened up to 15-20 knots. We did get the genoa furled and the pole stowed. Getting the main down was more of a chore and not too pretty but we got anchored next an old wooden boat and a catamaran in the lee of the hill.

While we were maneuvering to anchor a panga full of Mexican tourists yelled and pointed out two orcas passing about 200’ behind us. We only got quick glimpses of them but they were definitely orcas, the first we have seen in the Sea of Cortez.

Los Frailes is to be our last stop on Baja and in the Sea of Cortez before we hop over to the mainland, back into the Pacific Ocean and La Cruz on Banderas Bay near Puerto Vallarta.

We had originally planned to depart at midnight of the 9th but the winds continued very strong out of the north so after consulting the forecasts we decided to sit tight until morning of the 10th.

While we were anchored at los Frailes we could again hear whales singing though the hull of the boat. Magical as always. Even the Michin could hear them and he was puzzled by what was making all the racket.

Also while we waited at los Frailes we stripped and serviced both the big Lewmar 58 winches on our coamings which we use for the genoa and spinnaker sheets which generate incredibly high loads. The grease inside these winches was abominable and the port side winch had water inside it. Very bad, and a good thing we took it apart. They both ran as smooth as butter after we serviced them. Also at some point on the 9th we found the galley freshwater foot pump leaking. I took it out and tried to fix it, to no avail, it still leaked. On a brighter note, I messed around with opening and closing the pressure relief valve on the broken backstay adjuster, which apparently jostled something loose as it began holding pressure again.

Bahia los Frailes

Crossing to the Mainland

Cerralvo Channel and Ensenada de los Muertos